mustang engine rebuild
302 mustang engine, rebuilding,?
I have a 302 i think im going to rebuild.. could any one tell me how much a rebuild kit is, and Idea to do with it ? its going in a late mo...
mustang engine rebuild
302 mustang engine, rebuilding,?
I have a 302 i think im going to rebuild.. could any one tell me how much a rebuild kit is, and Idea to do with it ? its going in a late model Mustang. setting up for speed/racing only. not really for street use. what Cams and everything should i be trying to find for this project ? Is there a good place to buy parts from ? Summit racing ? Jegs ? others out there maybe ? Thanks !
If you're going to build an engine for racing find an automotive machine shop close by and work with them. They have the tools, expertise and resources to help you build the engine to attain what you want. Just grabbing a cam doesn't hack it. For best results all the components need to be selected with the end results in mind. some cams don't work as well with one head set as another for example so it's really best to go to the experts and you're going to need machine work anyway.
For many auto enthusiasts, there is little difference between an antique car and a classic car but in reality, there is a huge discrepancy. In most states, 32 years is the benchmark for a car to be considered as an antique car. While a collector car, although usually fitting that age bracket, could be any vehicle that was unique in its time.
Back in the late 1930’s and early 1940’s, Germany’s Volkswagen was hoping to make an impression in the world automobile market. They couldn’t make any in-roads until World War II ended due to material availability and the fact that their factory was busy with military orders. One of their first attempts after the war used its small car design with Porsche engineering and they marketed the mid-engine 914. An excellent first antique car for a new collector.
Some collectors fear the often-daunting task of rebuilding an antique car, especially those from the early 1900’s. The Ford Model T was an excellent vehicle for its time and antique car collectors are willing to pay for one not requiring a lot of work, especially if it doesn’t need a lot of almost impossible to find parts.
Some Classic Cars are Antiques
A 1957 Chevy, while in age it is considered an antique car, is better known as a classic because that is a car that people remember with fondness from previous days. A 1964 or 1965 Ford Mustang, while not on the original muscle car list, is often coveted as a classic by those who owned one in the late 1960’s or 1970’s.
So beloved are some of the antique cars that car companies are beginning to bring back the name and the basic design, although with modifications. The Volkswagen Beetle, made in 1938, one of the longest-running models in automotive history, was brought back in 1998. Built on the frame of another VW model, the Golf, it is larger than the original bug but has a great similarity in its shape.
The Ford Mustang also made a comeback as few years ago, but not as the small unintimidating antique car from 40 years ago. It’s a spruced-up version with minor body modifications and a much more powerful power plant.
The Dodge Charger, long known as one of the better muscle cars and now sought after as an antique car, is making resurgence, still as a muscle car with a power engine and a slightly modified style.
Some people may view these cars as an antique car simply desired for a collection; others see them as classic cars; there for the memories.
What modern motorcycle seats are compatible with a 1983 yamaha maxim 750?
My seat is completely destroyed and I need a new one (pan and all so a new cover wont work). I have been looking on ebay and don't like what I see. Mustang and corbin seats don't make one specifically for my bike so Is there any alternative seats that will work.
best bet is to find a salvage maxim that at least has the seat pan and hopefully the foam or at least the basic shape of the foam then corbin could cover it for you
Mustang Motorcycle Seats For Passengers and Saddles.
Mustang motorcycle seats are made for many different types of motorcycles including Harley Davidson motorcycles as well as many import bikes like Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki, Yamaha and the new emerging American brand Victory. All Mustang products are made in the USA. This company has been making quality saddles and passenger seats since 1980. Many different types of seats are available as well as sissy bar pads or backrests. Most cycle seats these days are not made with leather but a look alike vinyl cover or synthetic leather, however these motorcycle seats are made to look like seats made from genuine leather. For example the Regal Duke is made with a custom pillow styled seat cover that is made to look like leather. Sissy bar pads to match are also available. This company is also very active in the motorcycle community by attending many of the bigger bike shows like Biketoberfest, Sturgis and Bike Week.
Most of Mustangs seats are designed to have a very classic old school biker look therefore giving your bike more of a custom feel. Products like the Regal Duke are made to look like and old school bench with a leather look. Some of these saddles also come in a studded version which will also give your ride a more custom look. Below are some examples of some of the products made by Mustang.
The Custom Square back Seat comes with a great functional shape for two-up riding. This seat has crisp, clean lines, with sewn-in center panels but no buttons or unnecessary stitching to clutter it up. Constructed with a premium-quality expanded vinyl cover for durability and great looks.
The Sport Touring Seats with Studs and Conchos has a deeply pocketed driver seat is at the ideal cruising angle, and the passenger sits comfortable in a bucket seat. These seats have a premium-quality expanded vinyl cover, and built-in steel support wings in the passenger seats. The Driver's back is well-supported by nose of passenger pad that extends forward. This particular piece comes studded with conchos. Studded version has skirt with conchos, accent studs and braid that extends below the edge of the seat.
Contour Studded Sissy Bar Pads are made to provide maximum support for your passenger. The foam is contoured to follow the natural curvature of your back, and has a premium-quality expanded vinyl cover. Pads mount to OEM backrest, and include chrome screws. The pad measures: 9"H x 12"W.
Regal Duke Saddles feature low, custom-pillow styling with leather-like exterior. The two-piece foam improves rider's back support, and keeps passenger from sliding forward. The seat base plate matches OEM for exact fit. Matching sissy bar pads are also available for this saddle.
You can readily buy these products directly from Mustang or one of their network of dealers and accessory shops which are located all over including Europe and the USA. Many seats, pads and types of saddles are available from Mustang. Almost all motorcycle makers are covered in their product offering from Honda to Harley Davidson or Victory Cycles.
About the Author
By Dominik H. For more details on these products please visit our online catalog of motorcycle parts and accessories. Look for the motorcycle seat
section.
How do I take the back seats out of my 89 mustang?
I'm trying to take the rear seats out of my 89 mustang, but i cant figure out how they come out.
There's a hook on the floor that holds a bar in the seat.
You need to push on the base of the seat (where your ankles would be if you were sitting in the seat). Then lift up. It will take a little pressure pushing towards the rear of the car, but it should lift with almost no effort.
Custom Seat Covers: The Most Effective Way to Enhance Car Interiors
If the seats are comfortable and attractive, naturally you will have great pleasure, fun and thrill of driving. Do you also wish to have such an exciting environment inside your vehicle? Well, with the help of quality car accessories such as custom seat covers, dash covers, and floor mats, you can enhance and personalize the interiors of your car.
The custom made seat covers are of great help when it comes to protect the original upholstery. The seats of your car attract lots of dirt and dust. Food remains and water spills cause them dirty. Kids and pets are other reasons that leave dirty claws to the seats of your car. Besides these things, there are other elements such as extreme sun, heat, moisture, abrasions and friction etc also harms the original upholstery severely. All these result in early wear and tear.
Once the original upholstery is torn or damaged, it’s really tough to get desired performance. Changing them is expensive as well. However, you can avoid such consequences. Getting the custom seat covers may save you from inconvenience and unwanted expenditure.
When it comes to get seat covers, the first and foremost aspect is the protection of the original upholstery of your car. The material used and the manufacturing process employed determine the effectiveness of the seat covers. Usually the brands of repute use latest technologies and quality material. The material used must be strong enough and durable. It should breathe properly as well.
The perfect fitting is also necessary for the desired protection of your car seats. The seats covers must cover all the contours of the original upholstery. Perfect fitting seat covers don’t curl, fold, or mess and hence, make the seat of your car more comfortable.
The custom seat covers are available for most of the car brands and models. Whether you are looking for SUV seat covers or Mustang seat covers, Acura seat covers or Mercedes seat covers, there are seat covers for all. So, get one that suits your needs most.
About the Author
Article written by Shane Watson. Here you will get all the details you need on Car Seat Covers and you can also find the best info on Seat Covers.
i have a 86 camaro iroc with centerline rims, and im debating if the acorn ones will work. there just on the rim, without any depth for longer lugs, any advice? the ones on there now just look like bolts. rusty ones at that.
you need to get the proper lug nuts recommended for that type of wheel and your vehicle or you could run into a lot of problems when your wheel flys off driving down the road, been there done that.
Callaway Cars, a company that creates cars, products, systems, and components that exemplify automotive technological sophistication has recently announced that they will present their latest automotive pieces of engineering at the forthcoming 2007 New York International Auto Show (NYIAS) that will add up to their product lineup. One of these latest products from Callaway Cars headed for New York show is the C16 Convertible super car that is based on the popular Chevrolet Corvette platform.
“Customers who want the exhilaration of a convertible and the daily driver convenience of a paddle-shift automatic without sacrificing the performance capabilities of a Z06 and beyond, can only get it here,” said Reeves Callaway, founder of Callaway Car.
“With this car we have maintained the C16’s class-leading performance, while creating a gorgeous convertible version, based on one of the best sports car platforms ever made. In true Callaway tradition it incorporates our race-proven technologies and superlative craftsmanship in an arresting and appealing style.” he further explained.
In addition, Callaway Cars said: "The C16 convertible takes performance, style and open-air motoring to the next level, giving buyers an opportunity to experience premium supercar performance in a convertible." Designed by veteran Callaway Cars designer Paul Deutschman, the Callaway C16 Convertible has been remodeled from the original design and received additional design cues while retaining other features of the Chevy Corvette like the power top and probably the GM throttle body spacers.
Inside the cockpit, the C16 Convertible's interior comes in German leather and Alcantara trim designs. There are also numerous Callaway badging on the interior parts like door sill panels, steering wheel and passenger dash, to name the few. The Callaway C16 also comes with serial numbered plaque on each model that marks its identity.
Well, as expected for a super car model, the Callaway C16 Convertible is equipped with a high performance engine under its sleek and stylish hood. The C16 Convertible comes with a monstrous supercharged 6.0-liter V8 engine capable of pumping out 560 hp. For customers who starve for more power output, Callaway is offering the optional Performance Package. With this optional powertrain package, the V8 engine pumps out an impressive 616 hp at 6,200 rpm and produces 582 lb-ft amount of peak torque at 4,750 rpm.
The engine is combined with three available transmission types including 6-speed manual gearbox, another 6-speed manual gearbox with shorter ratios in the first four gears, and a 6-speed automatic gearbox with paddle shift. This powertrain package allows the Callaway C16 Convertible to accelerate from zero to 60 mph in just 3.5 seconds, reaching a top speed of over 200 mph. In spite of the powerful performance, the C16 Convertible still offers an impressive fuel economy compared to other super car models as well as low exhaust emissions.
For the super car's dynamic handling, Callaway equipped the new C16 Convertible with newly developed Callaway/Eibach Multi-Pro coil-over suspension along with super-lightweight Callaway Dymag wheels dubbed as the "lightest road wheel in the industry". The C16 Convertible is equipped with 19-inch Dymag wheels on the front, and 20-inch at the rear fitted with 285/30ZR19 front and 325/25ZR20 rear performance tires.
And the sticker price? Well, you can get the high-performance Callaway C16 Convertible on your garage by spending $128,765 USD.
About the Author
Noah Scott is a 30 year old native of New Jersey, writer, and car fan - having grown up with both parents being auto enthusiasts. He works for an automotive consultancy firm and regularly contributes articles to car magazines.
I guess I’m a long time sailor, but I was a long time power boater, as well. I can remember those days clearly…blue skies and seas as I headed out in my 42’ Chris Craft, adding power to move her out and just watching for the moment when the bow would descend into a plane. I would ease those throttles back a bit, and listen for those engines to synchronize….that cool sounding hum. What a feeling…heaven…until a pesky sailboat got in my way. It would seem they would turn their sailboat to cross my path on purpose. I would turn away, at times closely, (not too closely) to show my frustration. But, I was young in those days, and didn’t know any better. Most of those times, the sailboats had to turn (tack) to stay in deep water. Their drafts are 4 to 5 feet, so staying in the channel is a must for them. Plying the waters in Great South Bay in those days, you had to stay in channels… it was shallow!
I’d shoot out to Davis Park or Watch Hill on Fire Island (Long Islands’ barrier beach) for a cool weekend, or go out Fire Island Inlet for some shark fishing…maybe do some trolling out there in the Atlantic Ocean. Tuna always sounds good. When I kept my powerboat on the North Shore of Long Island, I’d head out by Eatons’ Neck (Huntington harbor area) to the Long Island Sound. We would watch for the boiling water to get those bluefish! Casting in, to snag those bunker, which were creating that boiling action, was all you had to do. A chopper (huge bluefish) would inhale that bunker you snagged and would give you one hell of a fight. It was a sensation, time after time. Connecticut was always a tease; their Rocky shore always brought in great fish! I never noticed sailboats fishing with us. For that matter, I never saw them fishing at all.
We would have fun get togethers that lasted all weekend, either anchored or dockside. It was a true beautiful run being a power boater. There were times when the generator gave out or a motor sputtered to a halt, but, all in all, what a fine territory power boating is. Just turn the key, let the dock lines go, and hit the throttle. How much simpler can it get? What a pleasure.
At one point my wife, Yvette and I had to move ashore. Reluctantly, my boating days came to an abrupt end. It’s not like we didn’t plan this. We kept getting larger and nicer power boats to live on, then fixing them up and selling (wood in those days), to a point where we could put a down payment on a house when and if we needed to. That came sooner than later. With my new career and home keeping me busy, I did not think I would miss boating. By the end of the first year, I was back on the water, but not exactly the way you or I would think.
Truthfully, all I can recollect is strolling down a dock by a boat brokerage. There were tall rigs on these boats, but they were not outriggers, they were masts! I don’t remember how I got to look for boats at this marina - the internet was not around yet (at least I don’t think so). I do recall stepping aboard this thing with a mast, bow first from the dock, and continued to the stern where the cockpit was. Sitting down and looking forward, I stared at this aluminum stick going skyward. “This is a sailboat, Doug,” I told myself. What are you doing sitting in this? I thought. “I don’t know,” I said. Looking around it seemed simple enough. A tiller for steering and an outboard motor in the aft compartment for propulsion. Still sitting there, I didn’t feel repulsed. I stared at the beige and tan deck, noticing the sleek lines as my eyes moved forward towards the bow. The only thing that interrupted those lines was this big tall thing sticking out of the fore deck.
My thoughts moved way back to a time my cousin and I went sailing. It was my first sailing experience. We were around 13 or 14 and he lived on the water in Seaford, the south shore of Long Island. At times I would get to stay weekends. Their huge wooden powerboat would be docked out back along with a 17’ speed boat. This weekend was special because next to their huge powerboat was a new addition. This little wooden centerboard sailboat, all of maybe 19’. It was a “Lightning” open cockpit sailboat. My cousin Barry had received a great birthday gift, which included a training lesson scheduled for the next day. How lucky for Barry and I. His family was power boaters, making this seem odd owning a sailboat. But at our young ages, we knew an adventure was about to begin! The morning didn’t come fast enough. With breakfast out of the way, the chime from the door bell brought excitement.
In the past, my cousin Barry, his friends and I went zooming around on his 17’ Four Winns inboard outboard speedster. It seemed to be one of the fastest boats around. I would play with the carburetor and timing to extend acceleration and top end. I remember, even back then, having a knack for engines. I learned waterskiing with him along with daring boat amusements like jumping waves and hard sliding turnabouts. Looking at this sailboat, not knowing what speeds it could reach or anything else for that matter, made me very inquisitive and anxious to begin the day.
Life jackets were put aboard along with some lunch goodies. The sailing instructor looked around 20 years old and began by giving us a lesson on the theory of wind and the effects on sails of a sailboat at dockside. Armed with this knowledge, we ventured out with him putting what he taught us to the test - our test! This really went smoothly as we put the sailboat at different angles to the wind, and adjusted the sails accordingly. All this gave us forward motion. The more precise we were with the sail adjustments, the faster we went. Being close to the water, in this small sailboat, made any speed seem especially fast as the water along side rushed by. We did get to heel over (boat leaning over) and all of us moved to the high side. Boy, did she get up and go! He taught us how to head up into the wind to stop, and switch the wind from one side to the other. Switching the wind from coming over the portside of the boat, to the starboard side is called “tacking“ if you are going into the wind. It is called “jibbing” when the wind is coming from the aft (back of the boat). The instructor made this all seem effortless, which calmed our jitters.
Confidence grew, as we mastered the maneuvers. Our instructor just watched what and how we were doing things, correcting us here and there and giving us pointers. He seemed more like a friend. What we didn’t know was that our big test was coming - docking!!! As we came back to Barrys’ house, we had to dock the boat. Did I tell you the sailboat had no reverse!!! No engine, for that fact!! AAHHHHHH!!!!!! We thought we were going to crash!!! All we had was a canoe paddle and a big dock coming at us. But, alas…what was that other maneuver? As young boys, luck was on our side. That maneuver was “coming into the wind” (turning the boat head on to the wind) and we ghosted right to dockside. Perfect!
Barry’s Mom was complimented by the instructor on how well we two young boys had done and what seamanship we showed. I really don’t know for sure what the instructor said, but it must have been better than good, because we were allowed out again alone!!! The only thing that was requested was to stay close to home and not venture too far, which we agreed to immediately. We couldn’t contain ourselves. I think his mom allowed this, because we would go out in the speedster all the time, zipping back when the weather would turn.
The day was still beautiful and out we went. It was downwind out the canal and a few tacks to get out in the bay. I remember being on a “broad reach” (wind coming over the side of the boat) for awhile before we realized the wind was picking up. My cousin Barry was very adventurous. He would try different sail settings looking for that peak moment. I think that is what he did in life - find those peak moments. The sailboat was flying! We were proud of ourselves for going so fast. But that feeling soon evaporated as we looked overhead to some darks skies coming in. If we had the speedster, this would not be a problem. What we did not realize is in a sailboat, you can’t just zip back!
About the Author
Captain Douglas Malat is a sailor, licensed captain, freelance writer and co-creator of Yacht Authority, a virtual boat show website, where you will find hundreds of power boats and sailboats for sale.
I was quoted $70 labor and $200 to replace the chain, sprocket, and what looks to be a smaller sprocket. Does this sound right?
Its an 01' Honda Shadow Spirit 750
Those sound like very fair numbers. The labor on that should take an experienced mechanic no more than an hour. Chains can vary in price from $70-$180+ for street and the sprockets anywhere from $70 on up as well. The smaller sprocket is the front which you can't see without removing a cover. Don't think of being stingy and only replacing the one large one. Even if you don't see much wear it's best to change sprockets whenever you change your chain. So even at lowest prices you're getting a decent deal.
The design of a bike, or motorbike to be more specific, depends on the landscape they are to be used. Using a super bike for an off road ride can prove out to be a very bad idea. The Dirt bikes are the ones you should look out for a cross country ride. They can be called the ATVs among bikes. Designed to burn rubber on any type of terrain, paved or unpaved, these bikes are very light and are also called Trails bikes.
The Dirt bikes come with two and four stroke engines. They are lighter compared to the Street bikes. On an uneven terrain handling a bike is a very difficult job. A biker faces sand, wet ground, boulders and all sorts of hindrances. A bike that has to face all these hurdles should also be equipped well enough to overcome them. Lightweight bikes are always easy to maneuver and so are the Dirt bikes. Their lightweight body makes them the perfect bike for an off road escapade. Next important feature is the suspension. The suspension of a dirt bike needs to be very good and should possess superior absorption capability compared to other bikes. You don’t run down a steep mountain on a street or cruiser bike. With lightweight a good Dirt bike should also have good suspension.
The tires for a Dirt bike should have deep threads, also called Knobbies. This gives them a better traction through bad terrain. Traversing through sand is very difficult. The loose soil hardly offers any grip. These tires with Knobbies give the biker a better grip than those without them. To stay clear of the high boulders and rocks the engine is mounted a little higher. The gas tank is placed at the centre of the body to balance weight equally on both tires maintaining the centre of gravity between the wheels. With all these features calling a Dirt bike an ATV among bikes is no exaggeration.
The Dirt bikes come with two stroke and four stroke engine. Their power ranges between 50cc and 500cc. Quite less when compared to other street bikes but enough for a cross country cruise. Like any other bike the Dirt bikes also demand good care and maintenance. The engine requires special care. The owner should also make timely replacement of the tires. Overused tires offer bad grip and poor handling both of which may result in fatal crash. The biker should also take care of the sprockets, chains, axle, throttle and other parts. Proper maintenance is the soul of biking.
One more fact that sets Dirt bikes apart from other bikes is the fact that they don’t have any license plates in America. The government registers them once a year as they are not driven on road. Many companies manufacture Dirt bikes; the leading manufacturers are Yamaha, Suzuki, KTM, Honda, Husaberg and also Husaqvarna. There are also mini Dirt bikes for the amateurs to begin with. They are smaller in size, less heavier and low on power. They are easy to handle and perfect for kids and novices to start with. Yet they demand equal safety measures as any other bike does. There are many competitions and rallies organized around the world, the most famous being the Motocross. This shows how popular these bikes are.
How do I flush the gas tank on a 1995 Chevrolet Truck?
The truck has been sitting for 4 years and I think the tank needs to be flushed. A mechanic told me that all I need to do is put in a gas treatment when I fill it up. Any advice will be much appreciated. Thank you.
Best bet is to drop the tank and clear the lines to get rid of old nasty gas. Then fill it up and add a bottle of fuel injection cleaner. Also after 4 years of sitting, the fuel pump is probably shot, so a new one would serve as a good starting point. I bought one from Napa, they come with the new in tank wiring, otherwise you will have to buy the wiring separate.
The ability to run a vehicle on water seems like an outlandish notion plucked from a science fiction movie. However, innovative applications to established technology have slowly turned fiction into fact. Vehicles can now be partially run on water. There are many guides on the internet that provide information on how to convert your vehicle to partially run on water. But skeptics still wonder if pouring water in gas tank will allow your car to run.
The honest and succinct answer is no. This is for a variety of reasons. Firstly, there is a misconception of "water in gas tank" technology. You can operate a vehicle that runs partially on water. However, regular gas is still required. Performing the conversion allows you to run your vehicle on a mixture of gas and water.
Secondly, it is important to note that introducing water into an unmodified gas tank can damage your vehicle. These conversion guides will not ask you to modify you gas tank. Your gas tank is an important part of your vehicle that should not be tampered with for safety reasons. Good conversion guides should not require you to modify your gas tank. Operating a vehicle partially on water relies on the utilization of HHO (2 parts hydrogen and 1 part oxygen). In order to utilize HHO, these guides should draw water from a source that is separate from your gas tank. It should not, under any circumstances involve pouring water into an unmodified gas tank.
Even if you did modify your gas tank, introducing water into your engine's combustion system could be damaging to your engine. This poses further safety concerns. Good HHO conversion guides should not require you to make drastic modifications to your engine.
Now that we've established that we should not pour water into our gas tanks, we can tackle the lingering doubts on the efficacy of HHO conversion guides. For skeptics, the main point of contention is the effectiveness of HHO conversions.
Independent research has shown that HHO conversion can and does work. These studies have shown that HHO converted engines require less gas and produce less carbon emissions.
Some consumers are easily drawn by powerful testimonies. It should be noted that consumer experience will vary. Several HHO converted engines are able to increase their mileage by up to 50%. Should you choose to implement HHO solutions to your vehicle, your experience may not be entirely congruent with other consumers,
In order to learn more about HHO, it is important to get a well written HHO conversion guide. This is especially so if you intent to use HHO technology on your car. The quality and methodology can vary from guide to guide. It is important to use a guide that is safe, well written and geared towards your technical knowledge and needs. Before you pour water in gas tank, do as much research as possible. Try to seek reviews on the myriad of guides being offered online and you will eventually find the guide that is best for you.
